Monkey Cave: As you know, monkeys thrive in this part of Asia. Near Phang-Nga (on the mainland) is monkey cave, the site of Wat Sawan Kuha. In the cave is a huge reclining Buddha made of gold. (Why am I suspicious that all these Buddhas are made of real gold?) Of course, a temple requires a monastery, so monks are around to tend to the needs of their lord – and the monkeys. Geographers know that caves indicate limestone lithology. Here in the wet tropics, there is plenty of water to dissolve calcium carbonate and huge pockets form underground. Roof collapse often opens the caverns to the outside world. That’s what we have here, a huge cave with two fine entrances and an abundance of stalactites and stalagmites. Actually, I found the cave much more interesting that the Buddha. Am I allowed to say that? The monkeys seem to know enough not to go too far into the cave, but they love the trees outside, though they seem to be a little scarce when it is pouring down rain, as it is today. Yes, today is proof that we are in the monsoon season. Not that it rains all the time, but there are always clouds in the sky and today there has been complete cloud cover and periodic rain. The advantage of thick clouds? It is cool and pleasant.
007: I got on a long-tail boat at the port town of Phang-Nga. It was propelled by a powerful motor and captained by a skilled mariner driving from the rear. Out into Phang-Nga Bay we went. Much, if not most, of the bay is part of Ao Phang National Park. One of its 42 islands became world famous in 1974: James Bond Island. Go back and watch Man with a Golden Gun; you’ll see it. I walked that beach today and saw the offshore islet, Ko Tapu, standing tall and proud. You wouldn’t believe the number of long-tail boats that visit each day; it has to be one of southern Thailand’s most famous attractions. Fortunately, everyone docks on the opposite side of the island and visitors walk to the famous beach. Khao Phing Kan (the real but never-used name of James Bond Island) along with the others were formed from the same processes that created Monkey Cave. The bay is studded with limestone islands, remnants of a karst landscape that was drowned by the sea. Each island (really, large sea stacks with vertical sides) is covered by tropical forests and fringed by mangrove swamps. It is magnificent and mysterious looking in the rain and mist that enveloped our boat on this afternoon’s voyage.
Koh Panyee: None of the islands have enough of a coast for settlement. Their sides plunge into the sea. Nevertheless, a village of about 200 homes has developed off the island of Panyee. Every structure is built on stilts and they are all connected by boardwalks. As a fishing village it is several centuries old, but now it is also a tourist destination you can even take a room here for 500 baht. Panyee's population is Muslim and they are raising funds to build a mosque (though they have always had a masjid, or praying place). It must be wild to be a kid here.
Geographically yours,
D.J.Z.
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